Most cows secrete more fat in winter, due primarily to concentrated winter feed and the approaching finish of their lactation period. Certain breeds, notably Guernseys and Jerseys from the Channel Islands between Britain and France, produce particularly rich milk and huge fats globules. Sheep and buffalo milks contain up to twice the butterfat of whole cow’s milk (p. 13). The uniqueness of lactose has two main practical penalties.

Heat a frying pan with a splash of oil over a medium-high heat. Place the hen breasts in, skin-side down, and colour for 2-3 minutes. Add to a saucepan with a knob …